The Glacier Express is not just your average train service. It’s world famous. The daily service (and three per day in the busy summer months) in both directions is often quoted as a must-do, even for those who wouldn’t normally opt for a train-based holiday. The Glacier Express connects the two ski resorts of Zermatt in the west of Switzerland and St. Moritz in the east passing through the central Swiss Alps.
If skiing isn’t your thing – no problem. These locations offer a peaceful retreat for anyone year-round – Zermatt with its car-free streets and train journeys to the Matterhorn and both destinations are summer spa resorts.
The train itself certainly catches the eye in photographs and glossy brochures with its specially designed interiors with wood panelling and panoramic windows and a restaurant service at seat.
The Glacier Express, dubbed the “slowest express train in the world” is run by the two private Swiss railways who run local trains along the route – the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn (MGB) and the Rhätische Bahn (RhB). The only indication to the passenger of these companies working cooperatively is with the locomotives hauling the Glacier Express carriages, these are switched as the two railways meet at Disentis/Mustér station. The full route of the Glacier Express has over 291 bridges and 91 tunnels, not that you would notice as the views roll past the window. The latter part of the route even has UNESCO World Heritage Site status.
So, what is the train and the journey like and did it live up to expectations?
Here is a map of the full Glacier Express route:
Onboard the Glacier Express
The Glacier Express has a modern presence on the platform with its boxy toy-train carriages look and its very bold livery with the Swiss cross on the ends of the carriages and the Glacier Express logo displayed confidently on the side of the bar car in the centre of the train.
There are normally six carriages on the train with a variety of onboard accommodation on offer – Second Class, First Class and Exceptional Class.
Second Class Accommodation
For this trip we were using passes for Switzerland that were only available for Second Class. So, in order to make full use of these as opposed to buying a separate ticket for the Glacier Express we opted for Second Class accommodation for this trip.
Seats were arranged in a 2+2 formation and all seats were arranged around tables of four. We had managed to book two window seats on the Glacier Express website. Luckily for us these seats were on the right hand side departing from Zermatt, the best side for the views! Unfortunately the direction of travel is not stated when selecting seats from the seating plan so it’s pot luck which side you get.
First Class Accommodation
An upgrade on the Second Class accommodation is First Class. This has the same service offering but with a more roomy 2+1 seating configuration.
Excellence Class Accommodation
The crème de la crème of the Glacier Express, and a serious contender for the best product on a regular scheduled train in the world, is Excellence Class. Seating is in an exclusive 1+1 configuration and alongside its five-course menu, the carriage even has its own bar.
At-Seat Dining
Onboard dining is available for all passengers in Second and First Class served directly at your seat. It isn’t a cheap affair but a “must-do” on such a trip if its within your means. I’m an advocate for dining on the move – you can’t beat the experience with a changing picture window, especially with delightful scenery. I had the chicken tikka masala which set me back CHF 29.50 while my travel companion had the more Swiss minced beef with elbow macaroni, grated cheese and roasted onions, with apple compote costing CHF 27.50. The latest menu is available here.
Scenery
The views on this train trip didn’t disappoint at all. The train effortlessly crosses and ascends two areas designated as part of its full journey from Zermatt to St. Moritz. The first is through the Swiss Alps at Jungfrau-Aletsch, following Brig station, where the train ascends up to the Oberalp Pass at a 2,033 metres above sea level. The train then descends again at Disentis/Mustér and ascends again for the second time at Chur part way to the height of the Albula Alps at St. Moritz, designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, finishing its journey at 1,775 metres above sea level.
The photos featured in this Travel Report are for the first half of the trip from Zermatt to Disentis/Mustér. As you can see the windows are very reflective on some of these photos, the windows on the Glacier Express are well known for this, though there is a way to take reflection-free photos. Simply walk to the vestibule where the window on the external doors open.
For the scenery on offer for the rest of the Glacier Express route from Disentis/Mustér to St. Moritz, including the stretch with UNESCO World Heritage Site status, please see my next Travel Report that will be released in the coming weeks. Subscribe below to be notified of this as soon as it becomes available.
Why did we leave the train early?
Well, the Glacier Express certainly had some great things going for it, however, the trip is very long and there were some parts we didn’t enjoy.
We were travelling in Second Class which is exclusively seating around tables of four. As the train was fully reserved this meant we were crammed in sat next to two strangers and there wasn’t a lot of space. It was in the middle of a warm August day and although the Glacier Express carriages were air-conditioned, the panoramic windows meant the carriage was like a greenhouse. We were sat on the sunny side of the train as well and after enjoying our meal the heat became unbearable.
The alternative was also a very attractive option and would mean plenty of space. So, we alighted in Disentis/Mustér, with time to explore, before carrying on on an alternative train, where our existing InterRail-type passes would still be valid on.
Conclusion
The route of the Glacier Express is simply stunning and with a direct train covering much of the scenic Swiss landscapes the train has a lot going for it. The food and drink available to purchase was on the expensive side, but was well presented and delicious. The train itself was modern and tastefully decorated on the inside. What brought the Glacier Express down was the greenhouse-like conditions which was not pleasant in the heat of the summer and the cramped seating in Second Class. Travelling in First Class and Exceptional Class may have been heaps better and would recommend this if this is within your means.
Booking and Fares
As is sometimes the case with booking European rail tickets, there are considerable savings to be had when you know where to look and this includes travel on the Glacier Express. Here I will detail out the best process to save you money (tip thanks to the Man in Seat 61):
Step 1 – Make your seat reservation
Make your reservation direct on the Glacier Express website for your chosen travel date and train. Enter your chosen journey details and click “Classic Glacier Express” for First Class and Second Class, or select “Excellence class”. Fill out the journey details again in the bottom and select the seat from the seat map and click through to the page where you enter your personal details, change the “Reduction” drop-down box to “Reservation only”. This will reduce the price of the basket and will mean your reservation is booked.
Step 2 – Book your ticket with Omio
Book your ticket via the link below to Omio up to 60 days ahead. The main reason to book your ticket at Omio is that there is a chance that the ticket can be considerably cheaper than booking direct at the Glacier Express website and tickets always open 60 days ahead no matter where you book. This is because in Switzerland there are often “Saver Day Passes” valid for multiple operators’ services that day and these are cheaper than the point-to-point ticket for the Glacier Express and perfectly valid. The Glacier Express website won’t sell these even if they are available.
Of course if you have a valid ticket in the form of InterRail, EU Rail or on other passes such as FIP Coupons issued to rail staff (if you happen to work for a rail operator in Europe) then you only need to purchase the reservation.
| Journey Leg | Second Class | First Class | Excellence Class |
| Zermatt to St. Moritz | 199.00 CHF (including CHF 49.00 Seat Reservation*) 49.00 CHF with valid InterRail / EURail Pass / FIP SP Coupon | 313.00 CHF (including CHF 49.00 Seat Reservation*) 49.00 CHF with valid InterRail / EURail Pass / FIP SP Coupon | 734.00 CHF (including Seat Reservation and Gastronomy) 470.00 CHF with First Class InterRail / EURail / FIP SP Coupon |
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This article was first published in June 2023.
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Share your thoughts
Please get in touch if you have any feedback on this travel report by liking and sharing your thoughts below in the comments section. Have you made a similar trip? Please do share your own experiences on the rails.
we are currently on The Glacier Express and it is a beautiful journey! The scenery is amazing and the cars are pretty comfortable. I will make a note about having a group. We are with 10 and booked thur a travel agent. When it came time to order our lunch we were told we could not order because we were a group and had not preordered. We were never told we had to pre order. This left a group of 10 people on this train for over 8 hours without the ability to order food. I’m not sure what the difference was in us being a group opposed to regular setting. We were separated and spread out over the box car. They definitely were not accommodating. Actually very rude about the situation. Considering the amount you pay for the tickets I would have expected much different service.
So my advice is to bring lots of your own snacks and food for the journey because the scenery is stunning!!😊
I’d be putting a rocket up your travel agent as it states quite clearly on the website that groups of 10 or more must order meals in advance. If the travel agent isn’t aware of this basic requirement, he/she isn’t doing his/her job properly. This is one of the many reasons we do all our own research & bookings
we are currently on The Glacier Express and it is a beautiful journey! The scenery is amazing and the cars are pretty comfortable. I will make a note about having a group. We are with 10 and booked thur a travel agent. When it came time to order our lunch we were told we could not order because we were a group and had not preordered. We were never told we had to pre order. This left a group of 10 people on this train for over 8 hours without the ability to order food. I’m not sure what the difference was in us being a group opposed to regular setting. We were separated and spread out over the box car. They definitely were not accommodating. Actually very rude about the situation. Considering the amount you pay for the tickets I would have expected much different service.
So my advice is to bring lots of your own snacks and food for the journey because the scenery is stunning!!😊
Thanks for sharing your experience 🙏
I’d be putting a rocket up your travel agent as it states quite clearly on the website that groups of 10 or more must order meals in advance. If the travel agent isn’t aware of this basic requirement, he/she isn’t doing his/her job properly. This is one of the many reasons we do all our own research & bookings
Is there much room for your travel luggage in 2nd class
Small bags and backpacks can be stored at your seat, and there are luggage racks near the doors for larger suitcases. 🙂