If ten years of train travel across Europe and beyond has taught me anything, it’s that there’s a huge amount to be grateful for in the rail network back home in Great Britain. As much as I love the thrill of experiencing new cultures abroad – and the railways that support them – it’s remarkably easy to underappreciate what’s right on your doorstep.
My go-to escape route is the Settle and Carlisle railway. It offers an enjoyable train ride, access to outstanding hiking trails, and the occasional country pub, all conveniently reachable from stations along the line. The Friends of the Settle and Carlisle Line describe it as “England’s most scenic mainline railway”, and I couldn’t agree more.
Trains serving the route usually start and finish in Leeds and Carlisle, calling at villages and hamlets along the way, as well as the North Yorkshire towns of Skipton and Settle. It’s a line that offers slow travel and curiosity – one I return to time and time again.
In January 2026, a new opportunity arose to experience the Settle and Carlisle from a completely different perspective. Due to engineering work on the West Coast Main Line, intercity operator Avanti West Coast planned to divert services along this historic route to maintain connectivity. Depending on the day, these trains started and finished in Wigan or Preston, running non-stop to and from Carlisle.
Under normal circumstances, Northern operate the route with local stopping services between Leeds and Carlisle.
It was a rare, unmissable opportunity to enjoy my favourite railway in a new way – and I enjoyed it so much that I’m writing this post on a spontaneous second trip, just a week after the first.
Here’s the route map of the diversionary trip from Wigan to Carlisle. I’ve included stations on the line though these are only served by local trains from Leeds to/from Carlisle, not from Wigan.
The magic of the Settle and Carlisle route
The Settle and Carlisle route itself is visually stunning and the experience immersive. You leave the bustling city of Leeds behind and the scenery turns more and more rural until you reach peak wilderness. The historical stations are beautifully maintained, which leads me onto the community spirit.
The Settle and Carlisle line is visually stunning, and the experience of travelling it feels genuinely immersive. You leave the bustle of Leeds behind and, mile by mile, the scenery becomes increasingly rural until you find yourself in a landscape that feels close to peak wilderness. Along the way, the historic stations – many of them beautifully maintained – add a strong sense of character, which naturally leads into the remarkable community spirit surrounding the line.
The Friends of the Settle and Carlisle play a highly visible role with a noticeable pride in the line. Volunteers pull together to maintain station furniture, with vibrant flower pots in the summer, and keeping buildings freshly decorated – including signs, doors and building trims painted in their traditional burgundy. Their presence extends to the trains themselves, with a trolley service selling hot drinks, snacks and guided booklets and, on some journeys, onboard guides who bring the route’s history to life.
Something else is the atmosphere of the line. The Settle and Carlisle route is not a heritage railway, but part of the national rail network. Some travellers simply want to travel direct from Leeds to Carlisle and onwards to Scotland – yet they discover the beauty of the line simply going about their daily journeys.
And, of course, the line has a story. In the 1980s it was earmarked for closure, a decision that would have erased one of Britain’s most extraordinary railway routes. It was only through determined community campaigning over several years that the Settle and Carlisle was saved – a legacy that’s still felt every time a train rolls through the route.
The journey onboard Avanti West Coast
On the chilly, exposed platforms at Wigan North Western, our shiny new ‘Evero’ train arrived from the sidings. Recently introduced on the West Coast Mainline, the train’s useful bi-mode capability, being able to run in diesel mode, made this diversionary route possible.
A tantilising ten carriages rolled in, before an audible sigh spread along the platform as it was announced that only five would go to Carlisle. Still, train can always accommodate more people than you think, and five carriages would be more than enough today. After a wait behind the yellow line while the two sets were safely de-coupled, I dragged my frozen feet onboard.
A First Class experience
Today, we would be travelling in First Class – a novel way to experience this route, which is normally worked by Northern’s regional trains offering Standard Class only. Avanti West Coast are a full service operator, and First Class tickets include complimentary food and drink, even on these temporary ‘shuttle’ services between Wigan or Preston and Carlisle.
The host immediately addressed the single First Class carriage with warmth and character, and all of us in the carriage became aquainted rather quickly. She explained what was available and asked if we’d like something to drink, adding, with a grin, that she’d be offering us double helpings so she could enjoy the scenic sections too.
Everyone else in the carriage was there to enjoy the rare diversion as well. A gentleman sat opposite had a friendly debate with the host over which route the train, tracking the route on his laptop. We’d have to wait and see who was right.
The menus were handed out and we were offered the ‘Rest of the day’ menu, with it being an afternoon departure. I opted for the West Coast Cheese Board with a Red Leicester, Vintage Cheddar and a crumbly Lancashire from Avanti’s normal route from London through to Scotland. This was from the larger plates section. Also we were offered crisps, shortbread and chocolate.
The Settle and Carlisle route
Heading north from Wigan, much like departing on the regular route from Leeds, the train soon whisked us into open countryside. At Hellifield, we had joined familiar territory that the Leeds to Carlisle train takes.
Soon after came the crossing of Ribblehead Viaduct. Bathed in the afternoon sun, its arches cast long shadows across the surrounding landscape as we crept across, making sure not to miss a moment. We then passed Blea Moor signal box, where the signaller had stepped outside to see the train safely through.
After the tunnel of the same name, the scenery subtly shifted as we left the Yorkshire Dales behind and entered the Eden Valley with views reaching for miles. We glided through the highest station in England at Dent, followed by Garsdale before reaching Appleby, Kirkby Stephen and finally ‘the city of the lakes’ at Carlisle.
For those chasing the best views, we were seated on the right-hand side for most of the journey, although between Ribblehead and Garsdale the left-hand side offers the better vantage point.
Scenery Showcase
Here’s a video I made earlier of the Settle and Carlisle route, filmed during a winter 2025 journey on one of Northern’s regional services – the trains that normally work the line.
This travel report was first published in January 2026.
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