Italy’s network of InterCity trains, operated by Trenitalia, that serve cities and towns using the slower, classic lines, haven’t seen much investment in recent years, if any. This is at least compared to its high-speed counterparts, operated by the sleek Frecciarossa (Red Arrow) and Frecciargento (Silver Arrow) trains, that have been refurbished and rolled out to more destinations.
Italy’s daytime InterCity and InterCity ‘Notte’ (or ‘night’) trains provide a key role in serving more destinations at lower prices, offering more choice for customers. The night train network is especially impressive, operating more night trains than many countries in Europe and serving all corners of the country. The longest route in Italy served by a sleeper train is the InterCity Notte that connects Milan with the island of Sicily each evening. The train famously crosses the Strait of Messina en route to Palermo and Siracusa by being shunted on a ferry as part of its 20 hour voyage – the only train in Europe to do this now. This is a route I took back in 2020 and 2022 and is one not to be missed – take a look here if you’d like to learn more.
In 2024, Trenitalia announced a much needed brand refresh for the InterCity network, with its trains receiving an unlikely Rail-Away inspired, light blue livery. Officially, the blue represents the “Italian nature of Trenitalia, as well as referring to the crystalline waters of the sea that laps the coasts on which the trains travel”, according to fsnews.it. The changes haven’t only happened on the outside, but also inside has had a recent makeover in parts recently.
I booked a considerably shorter trip than the Milan to Sicily train in 2024, from the Italian capital direct to the city of Bari on the Adriatic coast on the InterCity Notte, with the same Friday-only train also serving cities such as Brindisi and Lecce following Bari. Purely by chance, my booked train was excitingly operated by one of Trenitalia’s re-branded trains, providing an early insight into the future of what the nationwide operation might look like.
The InterCity Notte (ICN) 789 was scheduled to depart Rome’s Termini station slightly later than usual at 00:15 due to “infrastructure upgrading works” (normal departure at 23:58), arriving at Bari Centrale at 06:27, and its final destination of Lecce at 08:10.
For me, at just over six hours of sleep, the trip is bordering on being too short for a sleeper train but how did it work out? Was I better to book a hotel and take the high speed train instead? Read on to find out!
Before we go into detail, see below for the all important route map of the route of the InterCity Notte 789 from Rome to Lecce.
Departure from Roma Termini
At Roma Termini, named after the district where the station is located, the platform for the InterCity Notte 789 was only announced approximately thirty minutes prior to departure for the late night InterCity Notte to Lecce. This was at approximately 23:45 for the 00:15. This did mean waiting around prior to this at the 1950-built station, regularly glancing up at the departure board and eagerly awaiting platform news.
Thankfully, there are some facilities to help pass the time, including a few late night eateries (shout out to McDonalds – a far better one in the station than the one outside by the way!), free WiFi, toilets (1€ entry) and of course some arriving trains to peruse! There is a booking office for Trenitalia and private high-speed operator Italo, countless ticket vending machines, left luggage facilities and ATMs. At 23:20 the station was eerily quiet as only a handful of passengers awaited one of the few last remaining departing trains of the day.
There is a Le Frecce lounge at Roma Termini, however, a ticket for a sleeping car doesn’t afford access to this.
Onboard the InterCity Notte
Platform 16 was our departing point for the ICN 789 to Leece. As is standard for InterCity Notte services across the country, there are three types of accommodation. Trenitalia have changed these names as part of the overall rebrand. Now ‘Relax’ replaces ‘Deluxe’ for the sleeping cars, ‘Comfort’ remains the same for the couchette cars and ‘Easy’ replaces ‘Basic’ for the seated accommodation. If you ask me, I really don’t know what the logic was here, but anyway here’s more about each of them.
Sleeping Car ‘Relax’ accommodation
The most premium accommodation on this train is the ‘Relax’ sleeping car – not that you would know from the name versus the ‘Comfort’ couchette.
This is similar to sleeping cars across Europe, with individual compartments housing up to three bunk beds with a washbasin inside the compartment, a mirror, ample luggage space, electrical sockets and shared toilets at the end of the carriage. Since the pandemic, the sleeping car can’t be shared with other passengers, so if you’re booking for one passenger, this will afford exclusive use of the compartment.
On some routes, there is an additional class of travel which is the most premium type Trenitalia offers across its InterCity Notte fleet. This is the ‘Superior’ (formerly Excelsior) class, with the inclusion of an en-suite.
The comfortable sleeping car includes a clean bed made up and some amenities and catering perks (read on to find out more). The pillow comes wrapped in cellophane to show that it has been cleaned. A unique feature of the Italian sleeper trains that I haven’t seen anywhere else.
Shortly after departure, the sleeping car attendant popped by to check my ticket and passport – yes, this is required for domestic overnight travel – I think only to align the ticket to the traveller.
The compartment offered a few regular coat hangers and a modern washbasin that was hidden away under a bench with a retractable tap.
He handed me an amenity kit containing slippers, a toothbrush and wipes – fairly standard stuff, and also something I wasn’t expecting. A panic button. He stressed it was only to be used for emergencies and at the same time showed me the locking mechanism on the door. Making sure I kept the button far enough away so I wouldn’t accidentally press it, I didn’t hang about trying to get some sleep with the short night ahead.
The bed and pillow on the InterCity Notte was fairly firm. I did manage to sleep, and fairly well, throughout the trip, though the night was far too short to get any decent rest to be honest. Thankfully the panic button wasn’t needed, nor had I accidentally pressed it (consciously anyway).
Sleeping Car Catering
A trip in the ‘Relax’ sleeping car on the InterCity Notte now affords a breakfast choice. Previously, it was a case of you’re given what you’re given. Now NightJet sleeper-style, there is a menu card in the compartment on departure with a list of options including gluten and dairy free, which is great to see. All I had to do was choose and hand the card to the sleeping car attendant before going to sleep. The breakfast was with me after a knock at the door just after 06:00. This was plentiful but fairly basic being made up of pre-packaged snacks only.
There is now also food offered in the evening with the menu photographed detailing the ‘combo meal’ with the welcome kit in the last section.
Couchette Car ‘Comfort’ accommodation
The ‘Comfort’ couchette accommodation on the InterCity Notte does indeed appear comfortable and a popular choice of accommodation on this train.
There are some differences between the sleeping car and couchette car with each couchette compartment sleeping up to four people. Unlike the sleeper, the couchette is shared with other customers of the same gender.
A bed linen set is provided in the couchette compartment with a fleece blanket, bed sheet, pillow and pillowcase. A smaller breakfast of coffee and a pastry is provided.
There is ample luggage space, a reading lamp provided, air conditioning and electric sockets with USB ports provided. The door is also lockable from the inside.
Seated Car ‘Easy’ accommodation
Now for the ‘Easy’ or seated accommodation on the InterCity Notte. This is the cheapest accommodation on the train with the proposition being a regular Second Class seat only. The seats are in a 2+2 configuration, some around tables of four and other in airline style seating of two. The seats do not recline at all, providing little to no comfort to provide any sleep.
I’m not sure why they went with ‘Easy’ as a brand name for the seated accommodation. This could be misleading. Surely, booking any type of accommodation is as easy as booking this one but I understand they might have wanted to do away with ‘Basic’ as a name, so as not to undersell the daytime InterCity trains that use the same type of carriage as Second Class.
There are electrical sockets provided, footrests at airline-style seating and tables provided at every seat. The blinds were lowered on departure to provide some comfort.
Arrival at Bari Centrale
The InterCity Notte 789 arrived on time into Bari Centrale at an early 06:27. The old port city is well known for its ferry routes to travel internationally with sailings to Greece, Albania and Montenegro. Bari also has a delightful old town and beaches.
The station offers a booking office, ticket vending machines and toilet facilities.
Booking and Fares
Italy’s sleeper trains are generally highly affordable and represent great value for overnight accommodation and travel. Tickets are usually available up to four months in advance. There is dynamic pricing in place, meaning fares increase as inventory is sold so it is recommended to book as early as you can. The cheapest fares category is ‘Super Economy’. Once these have sold out, the next cheapest category is ‘Economy’ and once these have sold there are the flexible ‘Base’ fares.
| Journey Leg | ‘Relax’ sleeping compartment | ‘Comfort’ couchette shared compartment | ‘Easy’ seated carriage |
| Roma Termini to Bari Centrale | from 89,90€ per person for solo occupancy from 73,90€ per person for twin occupancy from 63,90 per person for triple occupancy | from 48,90€ per person | from 20,90€ per person |
| Roma Termini to Lecce | from 96,90€ per person for solo occupancy from 82,90€ per person for twin occupancy from 70,90 per person for triple occupancy | from 48,90€ per person | from 24,90€ per person |
This train can be booked direct with the operator, Trenitalia, where you may need to physically change the ‘Base’ category to ‘Super Economy’ to find the cheapest fares (subject to availability). Alternatively, help out the website by booking with our partner, Omio at the link below.
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Conclusion
The InterCity Notte is an excellent way to travel across Italy efficiently and at an affordable price, serving all corners of the country. The interiors of the sleeping cars have recently been refurbished, provided a fresh, modern travel environment and an enhanced soft product as a result of the additional security measures and food options compared to the previous offering. The night train from Rome to Bari is a short six hours, so doesn’t allow for much of a night’s sleep so bear this in mind when choosing the night train over the daytime high speed trains. Next time, I would probably select the latter option specifically for this route or choose to board from Milan or Turin for a longer rest.
This travel report was first published in February 2025.
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