There aren’t many railway routes with UNESCO World Heritage Site status. As it happens, there are two in Switzerland, both on the eastern side of the country with passenger services operated by the Rhaetian Railway (Rhätische Bahn, RhB).
In my previous travel report, I explained why we decided to leave the Glacier Express train early on our trip from Zermatt to St. Moritz. The trip we were about to take would cover the same route if we were to remain on the Glacier Express, however, this time on local stopping trains. We were hopeful this would address some of the discomfort we experienced on the Glacier Express.
We would be travelling on the Reichenau–Disentis/Mustér line initially and then the Albula Railway from Thusis to St. Moritz, the route with UNESCO World Heritage Site status. The other route with this status is the stunning Bernina Railway, from Tirano to St. Moritz, which is a subject for future travel report!
Let’s start by taking a look at a map of this leg from Disentis/Mustér to St. Moritz via Chur.
A break in Disentis
Alighting from the Glacier Express at Disentis/Mustér station allowed us to stretch our legs after travelling for four hours straight. What I love about long distance train travel is sometimes you’ll need to change trains, or simply decide on the spur of the moment to get off and break up the journey. This was made easy by flexible rail passes.
When we set off from Zermatt we hadn’t even heard of Disentis, let alone decide to alight there and explore. The climb up to the cathedral was well worth the expended effort to admire the quiet village and Alpine views.
Onboard the Rhaetian Railway Train
Disentis/Mustér station is the western most point of the Rhaetian Railway. This train therefore started here and would take us as far as Chur – a change in train was necessary to the Albula line to complete the full journey. This also provided another much needed break in Chur for an enjoyable afternoon tea at the Café Maron, near the railway station.
There are no catering facilities on these regional trains so it’s important to consider that if taking these over long-distances.
There is a choice between First Class and Second Class accommodation on these trains, the former providing wider seats and a quieter ambiance. We were travelling.in the latter for this trip.
Second Class Accommodation
All seating in Second Class accommodation on the Rhaetian Railway regional trains is in a 2+2 configuration with most seats around bays of four. These are aligned to the windows making the most of the opportunity to see the views. Unlike the Glacier Express, not every seat was taken, resulting in plenty of room to stretch out on both trains.
On the second train from Chur to St Moritz, there were some much newer carriages attached along with similar, older ones to the previous RhB train, including one with a unique sightseeing car. A sure sign we were on the train passing through the route with World Heritage Site status! There were no seats as such in this car, only seats to lean against. This didn’t provide much comfort so we headed back to the bays of four in the older carriage. The older carriage did come with something the sightseeing car did not – that was an open window! Perfect for breathing in the fresh mountain air and taking reflection-free photos. Please take note Glacier Express!
Scenery
The route from Disentis/Mustér to St. Moritz via Chur continued to live up to the scenery expectations as the initial leg did on the Glacier Express from Zermatt.
The Albula Railway, with its 42 tunnels and 144 viaducts and bridges, gained its UNESCO World Heritage Site status due to its “exemplary of the use of the railway to overcome the isolation of settlements in the Central Alps early in the 20th century” as quoted from the UNESCO website.
Probably the highlight from the route was crossing the famous Landwasser Viaduct, see picture below, with its six arch spans standing tall at 65 metres high. This then leads straight into a tunnel showcasing the impressive engineering. It is very easy to miss so make sure you’re listening out for the announcements that are provided on the train!
Arrival at St. Moritz
We arrived in the Alpine resort town of St. Moritz on time as per our new itinerary. St. Moritz is known for hosting outdoor sports and is a perfect venue for this having 300 days of sunshine a year. It’s also popular with hikers. If sports aren’t your thing, St. Moritz also provides a quiet retreat with its own lake.
Conclusion
The facilities on the Rhaetian Railway’s regional trains are more limited compared to the Glacier Express and the journey takes longer as well as change of train at Chur, however, this option enabled us to travel the same route to St. Moritz in more comfort than the fully-booked Second Class of the Glacier Express. The open window also proved to be an asset. I would therefore highly recommend alighting from the Glacier Express at Disentis/Mustér for those with flexible passes for those who need a break.
Booking and Fares
We used flexible rail passes for our trip where the likes of InterRail and EU Rail are valid on the train without the need for a reservation. For rail staff using FIP Free Coupons, the SP Coupon is valid for the whole journey.
| Journey Leg | Second Class | First Class |
| Distentis to St. Moritz (local trains) | Public Fare from CHF 44.80 InterRail/EURail Passes and FIP Coupons – free, no reservation required | Public Fare from CHF 71.00 InterRail/EURail Passes and FIP Coupons – free, no reservation required |
The trip can be booked via the Rhaetian Railway website where may be a cheaper Swiss Day Saver Pass available – valid for multiple trains in Switzerland for a day. Alternatively, book your ticket with Omio.
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This Travel Report was first published in July 2023.
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